Day 5: New Year's Eve + Hogmanay

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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We kicked off New Year's Eve by going to Edinburgh Castle right when it opened. It is 100% worth the £17/person entry fee. They say to allow 2 hours to fully experience it; we spent 3.5 hours inside but it flew by. Inside, you can view the Scottish crown jewels, visit a lot of museums/exhibitions, explore the prison cells, try some Scottish whisky, get the best views of the city, go on a guided tour, and watch a royal guardsman fire the 1pm cannon.

Then we made our way to Princes Street, where most of the city new year's celebrations would take place later that night. Usually, the Princes Street gardens are a quiet place to take a leisurely stroll. But since it was Hogmanay, they had a Christmas market set up with lots of vendors selling goods and street food - kind of like a fair, including the somewhat-sketchy rides.

Knowing we'd be out late, we rested in the hotel for a few hours then ventured back out. We stumbled across the Elephant House Cafe, which is where JK Rowling wrote most of the Harry Potter books. I remembered going in there when I studied abroad, so it was cool to recognize it again! We got some coffee and elephant shortbread to hold us over until our 11pm dinner.

When we booked this trip months ago, we didn't know anything about Hogmanay. Turns out that New Year's in Edinburgh is a big. stinking. deal. There are street parties, concerts, dances, and SO much going on. The official events were all ticketed, including the £35/person street party, £65 Franz Ferdinand concert, and £200/person VIP "HQ" experience. I'm sure every event was awesome - but I didn't love the thought of paying that much and potentially get rained on or freeze to death, since every event was outdoors. 

Weeks before we left, I began researching alternatives to the city-sponsored events. I knew they'd shoot off fireworks from the castle at midnight, so I wanted to go somewhere we could see them. Enter Google satellite & street views. I scoured the city and researched every building that looked like it had rooftop access. Eventually, I ran across the Tower Restaurant, located in the National Museum of Scotland. They had a rooftop terrace and appeared to have some 11pm dinner slots still open. After some Q&As with their reservations team via email, I booked our slots. I was stoked.

When it came time, our New Year's Eve dinner at the Tower Restaurant was absolutely lovely. It was fairly fancy place with lots of folks dressed to the nines (plus a young family with small kids and an old guy in a Cowboys t-shirt, so there's that). Steven ordered the steak and I had the risotto. A few minutes before midnight, everyone walked out to the terrace to view the fireworks. It was an absolutely magical experience to see fireworks shoot off the top of the castle. Again, I cried a little. Literally a once-in-a-lifetime experience - for me, at least. And hands down the highlight of the trip so far. What a way to ring in 2019!

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Travel Tips:

• Using your card: Before you go, call your bank and tell them the countries you plan to visit and when you'll be there. They'll put a travel note on your card so it doesn't get flagged/frozen for suspicious activity. This is VERY important! Years ago, I visited Spain while we were abroad but didn't tell my bank beforehand. Turns out, my card wouldn't work at all in Spain because there was a lot of fraud there. The last thing you want is to use those precious international phone minutes in a panic because you didn't plan ahead. (Thankfully, I was traveling with a friend at the time paid her back later.) 
• Currency exchange: Your bank probably offers a currency exchange service for free. Before you go, exchange your US dollars for some cash in the local currency. Your credit/debit card will probably still work, but there are many instances when cash is best.

A lovely morning at Edinburgh Castle

Peeking through a cannon embrasure (window/slot) at the top of Edinburgh Castle (the mountain in the background is the lower portion of Arthur's Seat)

Edinburgh Castle + bonus background puppy dog

The Christmas market filled the Princes Street gardens

Midnight castle fireworks, viewed from the terrace of the National Museum of Scotland. Happy new year!

Day 4: Welcome to Scotland

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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What a day! Checked out of our Dublin hotel around 11am and had a few hours to kill before we needed to head to the airport to catch our RyanAir flight to Edinburgh. So we walked around in the shopping center/mall next to our hotel and grabbed a bite to eat in the food court. We chose seats that overlooked the streets below, so we got a good vantage point of some of the street performers break dancing and juggling. We took one last stroll through Stephen's Green then headed to the Dublin airport via the 757 Airlink bus.

A short 50ish minute flight later, and we landed in Edinburgh around 6pm. The bus route was affected a bit by the preparations for the New Year's festivities - "Hogmanay" as it's called in Edinburgh. We headed toward our hotel from the bus stop. And we were interrupted by the COOLEST thing ever: the Hogmanay torchlight procession. Essentially, thousands and thousands of people with torches marching down the street (it was a good thing, not a protest). I knew the procession would be happening as we came into town, but I didn't expect it to be right in front of us!

Scattered throughout the mass of torch bearers were groups of bagpipe players and drummers. The streets were PACKED and it was difficult to navigate the sidewalks with all our luggage. Plus, the main street was gated off and we couldn't cross to get to our hotel just on the other side. But seeing the torchlight procession and bagpipe players was 100,000% worth the interruption and hassle and delay, in my opinion! I actually cried from happiness while we were standing there watching it all happen. Hands down the best way to be welcomed into Scotland. And also the best birthday present for Steven :) 

Tomorrow, New Year's Eve, we'll visit Edinburgh castle in the morning. Then enjoy 11pm dinner reservations that should *hopefully* give us a decent view of the fireworks shooting off the castle at midnight. Can't wait to ring in the New Year!

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Edinburgh Accommodations:

Travelodge, Edinburgh Central Hotel

33 St. Mary's Street

4 nights

Same company as our Dublin hotel, but so much better. Still cheaper than most of the other hotels in Edinburgh, despite the price hike for the days surrounding Hogmanay. The restaurant/bar downstairs had a great breakfast spread and was a convenient place to eat dinner when we were exhausted at the end of the day. Good prices on food, too. Located right off the Royal Mile, so just a short walk to everything. We could see Arthur's Seat from our 5th-floor window. Like the Travelodge in Dublin, they will hold your luggage for free for a few hours, so don't bother with early check in / late check out. 

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Travel Tips:

• Accommodations: Hostels are a great option if you want to save money and don't mind sleeping in a room with other people and using communal showers. The last time I was abroad, we stayed in hostels. We met so many interesting people from around the world. Air BnBs give you a more personal feel, since you're probably staying in someone's house. Hotels are the nicest option with the most amenities, but usually the most expensive. 
• I'll fly away: Once you land overseas, it's pretty affordable to fly to other countries. RyanAir is a cheap, no frills airline that can take you to the major cities within Europe. How cheap, you ask? I once flew from Paris to Pisa for less than 20 bucks. However, their carry-on size & weight requirements are smaller & lighter than the USA's. If you plan to country-hop, make sure you do your research beforehand so you don't get stuck paying fees for your bag being too big. 
• Public transit: Before you go, know exactly how you plan to get from the airport to your accommodations. Buses are cheap but take longer. Taxis are pricey but get you there faster. Google Maps and the airport website are your best resources. If you take a bus, know exactly which one to get on, which stop to get off, and how much it costs. Have exact change ready, because the driver won't give you change.

Dublin city streets - shopping to the left, tram lines in the middle, Stephen's Green to the right

Hundreds of seagulls, swans, pigeons, and ducks live in Stephen's Green

Edinburgh Hogmanay torchlight procession went straight down the Royal Mile

Some 20,000+ torchbearers, alongside 20,000+ spectators

Happy birthday Steven!

Day 3: Dublin's Fair City

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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Today was all about exploring the city of Dublin. Had a full Irish breakfast consisting of bacon (aka country ham), eggs, buttered toast, tomato, sausage, and something called black and white pudding. It wasn't anything like your snack-pak pudding; it tasted like meatloaf in the shape of a patty.

We booked our Guinness Storehouse tour for fairly early in the morning since it was cheaper than the peak times. It was such a cool museum/tour/storehouse! I loved all the interactive exhibits and learning the process of how Guinness is made. Some fun facts: A proper pint of Guinness takes about 2 minutes to pour, set/simmer down, top off, set again, and finally be ready to drink. The head of a Guinness must be between 10-15mm, and the server should always present your glass with the Guinness logo facing you. At the end of the self-guided tour, we were awarded with a wee pint and 360° views of the city at the top of the building.

Then we simply wandered around the rest of the day. Saw St. Patrick's cathedral, Christ Church, Steeven's Gate, the Dublin Castle, and lots of birds. Ate an early dinner in an old church that had been converted into a restaurant. Then made our way back to the hotel, enjoying the night views and the Christmas lights that were (gratefully) still on display. I'm really glad we came at Christmastime, because there were so many cool decorations that wouldn't normally be here.

Tomorrow we'll have a half day in the city, then fly to Edinburgh at 5pm. Steven gets to celebrate his birthday in two countries - something not many people get to do, I'm sure!

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Travel tips:

• HOHO: Hop-on, hop-off buses are great ways to get familiar with a city. They take you to some of the most famous attractions while the driver tells you all about each spot. They only go in one direction though - so depending on your destination, you may have to ride the entire 1.5-2 hour route. Sometimes it's faster to walk. But your feet will thank you for the break if you choose to ride.
• Offline: Before you travel, or when you're connected to Wifi, download an offline map of the city through Google Maps. That way, you don't have to use your precious mobile data to navigate the city. 
• Early bird: Tourist attractions get really busy after everyone's been awake for a while. Wherever you visit, try to get there first thing when it opens in the morning. It's way less crowded, the queues are shorter, and you can sometimes get a cheaper ticket for visiting at an off-peak time.

If you don't visit the Guinness Storehouse, did you even go to Dublin?

Lovely day for a Guinness!

Great views of the city from the top of the storehouse

City streets have a dedicated bus lane

Dublin Castle

Christ Church Cathedral

Day 2: Irish Countryside + Cliffs of Moher

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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Hopped on a Paddywagon tour bus shortly before 8am, after stopping for coffee and a muffin at Starbucks. Very American of us, I know, but apparently most coffee and breakfast joints don't open before 8!

Our Paddywagon bus driver was named Richard and he was a great tour guide. We stopped at the Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara for a quick photo op. Then sun peeked through the clouds just long enough for a nice golden light to hit one side. Legend says that if you walk "anti-clockwise" around the castle, something in your life will change. I'm still trying to figure out what's different now...

Next up were the "mini cliffs" of the the Burren. As we drove through the Irish countryside, we passed quite a few thatched roof cottages. The thatchwork is quite impressive. Apparently, thatching a roof is really expensive (around £50,000 for a small house), there's a long wait list (because only 26 people in the entire country are licensed to do it), and you have to re-thatch it every 7 years. #nothanks. We then ate lunch at Fitpatrick's Pub in Doolin. I had vegetable soup and Steven had a traditional Irish beef & Guinness stew.

We finally arrived at the Cliffs of Moher and, unfortunately, they were shrouded in thick fog. We didn't really see anything, which was a bit disappointing... But, that just comes with the territory. It's apparently a hit or miss thing. When I visited the cliffs 12+ years ago, it was a bright, sunny, summer day. At least we can say we've been there!

On our way back to Dublin, we stopped in Bunratty for an short break. The Bunratty Castle dominates the landscape. Lots of little touristy shops in Bunratty, too.

Got back into Dublin around 7pm. Wandered into O'Neill's Pub next to the famous Molly Malone statue. Steven ordered fish & chips, and I got the traditional Irish stew. It was super tasty once we figured out how to order food at the bar!

Tomorrow we'll explore the city of Dublin more. Got tickets to the Guinness storehouse where we'll tour how it's made in their distillery, and get to taste a wee pint at the end.

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Travel tips:

• Brekkie: Most stores don't open before 8am - including coffee & breakfast shops. We had to be on our bus before 8am, and Starbucks was the only thing open at 7:30am. If you plan to be out before then, get used to pastries and muffins for breakfast. 
• Bus tours: If you're stationed in one city for a while, day bus tours are super popular and a great way to see the rest of the country. You don't have to worry about driving or navigating around a foreign place. The drivers know exactly what they're doing, they share fun stories and interesting history, and all you have to do is sit and enjoy the view.
• Restaurants: It's rare to find a sit-down restaurant where you get waited on the whole time. In most places, you order food at the bar and tell them where you're sitting. If you don't know what to do or how to order, just ask one of the staff. They're used to clueless out-of-towners like us :) 

Dunguaire Castle in Kildare

The "mini cliffs" of the Irish Burren

The Cliffs of Moher are in there somewhere...

Bunratty Castle

Trinity College in Dublin, lit up for Christmas

Molly Malone with her wheelbarrow of cockles & mussels

Day 1: Looks Like We Made It

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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After a 6 year hiatus, the Canny Good travel blog has made its return! I had used this blog to document my travels when I studied abroad in England in the spring of 2012. Figured I'd revive it briefly to share my recent adventures with Steven to Ireland & Scotland (partly for my own benefit so I don't forget anything, but also for yours if you're interested). And, since we planned this trip on our own, you'll get some some bonus travel tips in case you ever organize a trip like this yourself! So without further ado...

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Flew out of Charlotte at 10am EST on December 26. Landed in Dublin around 5am local time / midnight EST on December 27. We took a bus from the airport & arrived in the city around 6:15am, then hauled our luggage around in the dark until we found our hotel. Dropped the luggage off, wasted a few hours in Starbucks (since it was the only thing open), then did a hop-on-hop-off bus tour, which gave us a good overview of the city. Some of the most famous stops included the Guinness Storehouse, Trinity College (which holds the Book of Kells), Kilmainham Gaol, the president's official residence, and Dublin Zoo. Fun fact: the lion in MGM's trademark was born at Dublin Zoo! Our bus tickets also allowed us unlimited use of the Dublin buses for 72 hours so we were set on transportation for a bit.

We also wasted some time wandering the streets til 2pm when we could check into our hotel. There was a really cool park next to us - St. Stephen's Green - that had lots of seagulls and ducks and pigeons and swans. We finally got in the hotel room, showered, and went to bed by 4:30pm. Being awake for 30+ hours had taken its toll, and we had a full day of fun ahead of us in the morning.

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Dublin accommodations: 

Travelodge, Dublin City Center, Stephen's Green
Lower Mercer Street
3 nights

Nothing fancy, but it has all you really need. A bit hard to find the first time if you're coming into town at night, since there's not a lot of external signage. Located next to Stephen's Green shopping center, so if you forget anything, you can just buy it when you get there. Breakfast starts at 8am in the cafe next door. Don't bother paying for early check in or late check out; they'll hold your luggage for you, for free, if you have a later flight.

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Packing tips: 

• Pack light: Steven and I fit all of our stuff in a carry-on & one checked suitcase. We could have gotten by not checking a bag, but I wanted a bit of extra room for souvenirs.
• Boots made for walking: Shoes take up a lot of room in a suitcase. You really only need to bring one pair - the ones on your feet. Just make sure they're comfortable, warm, and waterproof. And don't cheap out on your footwear. I got these Eddie Bauer boots when they were on sale. A little expensive, but they did not disappoint! (Side note: If you stay in a hostel, I'd recommend you also bring of cheap flip flops to wear to/from the shower). 
• On a roll: Roll your shirts/sweaters in your suitcase. I wear camisoles with just about everything, so I rolled up a cami inside a sweater, so all I had to do was grab one in the morning & go. No need to sort through stacks of shirts in my suitcase to find the one I wanted.
• Get cozy: If you're traveling to the UK in the winter, you'll need a warm, waterproof coat. It's going to be cold, dark, and rainy. Don't worry about packing a light jacket too. They take up too much room and, honestly, most days are too cold to go without your big coat! 
• Ladies: A backpack is better than a purse since it distributes the weight across both your shoulders. This small travel backpack was exactly what I needed. It's also "anti-theft" too, which means the zipper to get inside actually rested against my back, versus an exterior zipper than anyone could get to. I always felt like my stuff was safe & secure.

Aer Lingus flight from NYC to Dublin

NYC at night

Dublin streets are rather quiet at 6am

#teamnosleep

St. Stephen's Green park