Day 9: Northern Ireland + Giant's Causeway

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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On Friday, we booked another Paddywagon bus tour up to Northern Ireland. I had never been to Northern Ireland before, so now I can officially say I've been to every country in the British Isles! Our bus driver Paul was a pleasant Irish gentleman who, as we learned, has been to Charlotte and has friends who live in the Ballantyne area. Such a small world!

Anywho, we journeyed up from Dublin into Northern Ireland. Stop #1 was the Dark Hedges - aka the famous Kingsroad in Game of Thrones. Traveling up to the northern-most tip of the country, we then stopped at the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge and paid the £10 to walk across it. Heights don't usually phase me too much, but it was nerve wracking to walk across a rope bridge that bounced up and down, swung side to side, and could supposedly only support the weight of 8 people at a time 🙃

The highlight of the tour was the Giant's Causeway, which is this collection of geometric, hexagonal, naturally-formed rocks that are stacked together like puzzle pieces. It was surreal. Scientists say it was formed by flows of lava from ancient volcanos cooling as they contacted the sea. I prefer to believe the legend of the giant Finn McCool. We walked along the lower beach coastline, up the mountain, and looped back along the higher cliff pathway. Our last stop was in Belfast city center for an hour. We wandered the streets and visited their awesomely-designed mall, Victoria Square, before heading back to Dublin.

The next morning, we took the shuttle bus to the airport, made it through about 2 hours of security check points, and flew back home from Dublin - New York - Charlotte.

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So that just about covers the great McLendon expedition! This was the best adventure ever. I'm so grateful Steven and I could experience it together. We had surprisingly great weather, explored castles, witnessed breathtaking scenery, and experienced things that will only happen once in a lifetime (for us, at least). 10/10 would recommend you visit if you ever get a chance. Thanks for following along, friends. And until next time... have a wee pint for me :)

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Travel tips: 

• Ireland ≠ Northern Ireland: Northern Ireland is part of the UK and uses the pound sterling; Ireland is NOT part of the UK and uses the euro. For now, you don't need a passport to travel between the two countries, and there is no physical wall between the two (at least, not anymore). However, the border between Northern Ireland & Ireland is a major point of contention in the Brexit plans. In a few months, after the UK leaves the EU, traveling between the two countries may require a visa or a passport checkpoint. If you plan to travel there soon, keep an eye on the news and make sure you have what you need.
• Just Google it: Planning, researching, and booking a trip like this takes time. We didn't use a travel agent. I felt comfortable doing everything on our own because I had lived overseas before, and had a decent idea of how things worked in the UK. Check prices on hotels and flights every day because they change so frequently. If you don't know something, just Google it or email customer service. You can do this!

Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge

Giant's Causeway

Giant's Causeway - these wild stones are 100% naturally formed

Hiking along the upper cliffs of the Giant's Causeway

How is this real life?

Steven's panorama skillz make me feel like an adventurer

Day 8: Travel Day

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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Thursday was mostly uneventful. We checked out of our Edinburgh hotel in the morning and spent a few hours wandering around before our 7:30pm flight back to Dublin. To fill the time, we visited the National Museum of Scotland (where our New Year's Eve dinner reservations were). This time the museum was open and we had a chance to walk around. I remembered from last time it was one of the best museums I had ever visited - and I was once again reminded of why! They had exhibitions from art to science to natural history to and everything in between. So many interactive exhibits for kids and adults alike. My college degree is in art management, so I can understand and appreciate the time and effort it takes to put together a museum of such a high caliber.

We ate lunch at Nando's, which I frequently visited while in England. They're most known for their spicy chicken and corn on the cob. Nando's was right next to Greyfriar's Kirk too - a graveyard that inspired many of JK Rowling's character names in the Harry Potter series. The graves of Thomas Riddle and William McGonnagal were surrounded with tour groups of Potterheads with their wands and scarves and robes.

It finally came time to head to the Edinburgh airport. We hopped across the pond back to Dublin, walked to our hotel next to the airport, and crashed for the night.

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Dublin accommodations: 

Maldron Hotel, Dublin Airport
2 nights

About a 10 minute walk from the airport + free shuttle services to both terminals. Convenient to stay for a night or two when you're flying in/out of Dublin, but not a great option if you plan to stay longer; it's about a 30 minute bus ride to the city center. Fancy lobby area and a tad pricey restaurant/bar. The rooms were fine and had everything you'd need. Hairdryer was already in the room, unlike having to borrow one from reception at the previous two Travelodge hotels. We booked a queen room but were given two twin beds instead - but we rolled them together and had a sleepover.

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Travel tips: 

• Presence > pics: Photos help us remember and re-live past experiences. But, sometimes it's best to put the camera down and be present in the moment. DO snap the pic to freeze the moment in time. Then, put your phone back in your pocket, and take in what's happening around you. Make an effort to look up, down, and all around at your surroundings. If you don't, you may miss out on something amazing that's happening just outside your camera frame. 
• Snacks on snacks on snacks: When traveling, you don't always have time to sit down at a restaurant at your usual meal times. That's why we ate our weight in Clif bars on this trip. Thankfully, there are no TSA regulations for the amount of snacks you can bring on a plane. So fill up your backpack, jacket pockets, and suitcase with energy or protein bars to eat on the go - you'll be glad you did! 

National Museum of Scotland 😍

The grave of Tom Riddle

Royal Mile - until next time, Edinburgh 💖

Day 7: Scottish Highlands + Loch Ness

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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Today's bus tour with the Hairy Coo bus company around the Scottish Highlands and Look Ness was lovely. We saw some highland cows (or "hairy coos" as our driver called them) and highland ponies on the way up.

Our driver Graham was a funny, crazy, yet informative Scottish man who kept the ride interesting. One of our first pit stops was Doune Castle, where they filmed pretty much every castle scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. I was over the moon, even though it was closed and we were only there for about 5 minutes.

We then made our way up the Scottish Highlands. Years ago, when I did the highlands bus tour, I told myself that's where I wanted to live if I could retire anywhere in the world. And today I was reminded why. Gorgeous, rugged mountainscapes and lakes (or "lochs") everywhere you turn. I felt my heart ache a bit when we turned the corner into Glencoe - one of the most breathtaking areas of the highlands. No pictures can do it justice. In a weird way, it felt like I was coming home. We had pretty good weather too - partly to mostly cloudy, but not a drop of rain. It was quite cold though, dropping down to the 20's. Plenty of frost on the ground and a bit of snow on the mountaintops.

We then arrived at Loch Ness and took a boat tour around the lake. No Nessie sightings this time, but I still believe (See my blog post from last time if you don't believe).

By the time we left Loch Ness at 3:45pm, it was getting dark again. A couple of short pit stops at the Commando Memorial & in Pitlochery later, we were back in Edinburgh by 8pm.

Tomorrow we'll have a few more hours to kill in the city before our flight back to Dublin. The trip is winding down & we'll be back home soon!

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Travel tips: 

• Souvenir clothing: This is a sheer personal opinion, but I don't buy touristy shirts with big, "GUINNESS STOREHOUSE" or "I HEART NY" or "VISIT EDINBURGH" writing across the chest. When I shop anywhere, even at home, I don't buy clothing with a lot words on it. So I'd hate to buy a souvenir t-shirt somewhere and then never wear it because it's not my style. Instead, I buy stuff that's part of my normal style, that I'd wear every day. I have a black hat from Newcastle, a scarf and jacket from Sunderland, some shoes from Paris, and now a *new* gray toboggan from Dublin. I wear them all the time. And every time I wear them, I think to myself, "I got this in ___." Other people might not know I visited these cool places when I wear the hat, but it reminds me of my trip and warms my heart. 
• Small world: Don't listen to your mom on this one; DO talk to strangers. Find out about them and where they're from. You may find the world is smaller than you thought. For instance, our Ireland bus driver Paul had been to Charlotte and had friends who lived in Ballantyne. In Edinburgh, we ran into a couple wearing an App State hat who, as we soon learned, lived in Raleigh. Years ago in Pisa, I had met some fellow App State students because they were carrying a Harris Teeter bag. And last time in Edinburgh, I met a lady in our hostel who had a house in Blowing Rock. It's a small world, after all. 

The Scottish Highlands - this particular area is where they filmed Skyfall

Two peaks of the "Three Sisters" of Glencoe - no photo will do this place justice

Glencoe - my favorite place in the world with my favorite person in the world

Nessie...? 

Hunting for Nessie on the Loch Ness boat tour

Day 6: Edinburgh Hikes

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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Being January 1, we slept in a bit and got a late breakfast in the hotel. Then we walked to a place called Calton Hill, which is a park on top of a big hill. It's at one end of the city and has some cool monuments at the top. It was a popular place to view the fireworks the night before. We had pretty good views of the city, and great weather too.

From Calton Hill you can easily see Arthur's Seat, which is an even bigger hill/mini mountain. We decided to leave Calton Hill and make the hike to the top of Arthur's Seat. Steven is a trooper, but I almost died from exhaustion. My body ain't built for steep, never-ending climbs. But we eventually made it after lots of snacks and breaks! The 360° views we were rewarded with made it all worth it. It was mostly cloudy, but every now and then the sun would poke through and cast a golden light on the side of the mountain.

By 3:30pm the sun was going down. We hiked back down the mountain and made a bee line for the hotel. Everything was aching and we took a much deserved short nap. Then dinner downstairs in the hotel restaurant.

After we got back to our room, we watched the New Year's day specials of Doctor Who and the Great British Bake Off, live on the TV in our room. Two of my favorite shows, and they just happened to be showing new episodes! *Nerd alert*

Tomorrow is our bus tour through the Scottish Highlands and up to Loch Ness. I remember how breathtaking the highlands were when I visited last. Hopefully we'll have decent weather too - and we just might get a glimpse of Nessie.

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Travel Tips: 

• Sunlight: Since the UK is so far north, the amount of sunlight it receives varies drastically between the seasons. In the winter, the sun rises at 8:30am and sets at 4pm. But in the summer, it rises at 6am and sets at 10pm. If you visit in the winter, make sure you do all your outdoor activities while you can still see outside!
• Expect the unexpected: Not everything will go as planned when you travel. You'll get on the wrong train, miss the bus, have a delayed flight, not know how to order food, and question foreign customs/cultures. Don't freak out. The unexpected, while inconvenient at the time, simply adds to your story. Go with the flow. Eat the weird foods you don't recognize. Use charades at the train station when you don't speak their language. Get on the next bus that comes. Ask someone for directions or help. You'll be okay and, believe it or not, you'll be able to laugh at it later. 

Nelson Monument at Calton Hill

I MADE IT PRAISE HIM 🙌

At the top of Arthur's Seat - the castle is just above Steven's shoulder

Dat golden light 😍

Beautiful day for a hike!

Overlooking the eastern side of Edinburgh

Day 5: New Year's Eve + Hogmanay

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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We kicked off New Year's Eve by going to Edinburgh Castle right when it opened. It is 100% worth the £17/person entry fee. They say to allow 2 hours to fully experience it; we spent 3.5 hours inside but it flew by. Inside, you can view the Scottish crown jewels, visit a lot of museums/exhibitions, explore the prison cells, try some Scottish whisky, get the best views of the city, go on a guided tour, and watch a royal guardsman fire the 1pm cannon.

Then we made our way to Princes Street, where most of the city new year's celebrations would take place later that night. Usually, the Princes Street gardens are a quiet place to take a leisurely stroll. But since it was Hogmanay, they had a Christmas market set up with lots of vendors selling goods and street food - kind of like a fair, including the somewhat-sketchy rides.

Knowing we'd be out late, we rested in the hotel for a few hours then ventured back out. We stumbled across the Elephant House Cafe, which is where JK Rowling wrote most of the Harry Potter books. I remembered going in there when I studied abroad, so it was cool to recognize it again! We got some coffee and elephant shortbread to hold us over until our 11pm dinner.

When we booked this trip months ago, we didn't know anything about Hogmanay. Turns out that New Year's in Edinburgh is a big. stinking. deal. There are street parties, concerts, dances, and SO much going on. The official events were all ticketed, including the £35/person street party, £65 Franz Ferdinand concert, and £200/person VIP "HQ" experience. I'm sure every event was awesome - but I didn't love the thought of paying that much and potentially get rained on or freeze to death, since every event was outdoors. 

Weeks before we left, I began researching alternatives to the city-sponsored events. I knew they'd shoot off fireworks from the castle at midnight, so I wanted to go somewhere we could see them. Enter Google satellite & street views. I scoured the city and researched every building that looked like it had rooftop access. Eventually, I ran across the Tower Restaurant, located in the National Museum of Scotland. They had a rooftop terrace and appeared to have some 11pm dinner slots still open. After some Q&As with their reservations team via email, I booked our slots. I was stoked.

When it came time, our New Year's Eve dinner at the Tower Restaurant was absolutely lovely. It was fairly fancy place with lots of folks dressed to the nines (plus a young family with small kids and an old guy in a Cowboys t-shirt, so there's that). Steven ordered the steak and I had the risotto. A few minutes before midnight, everyone walked out to the terrace to view the fireworks. It was an absolutely magical experience to see fireworks shoot off the top of the castle. Again, I cried a little. Literally a once-in-a-lifetime experience - for me, at least. And hands down the highlight of the trip so far. What a way to ring in 2019!

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Travel Tips:

• Using your card: Before you go, call your bank and tell them the countries you plan to visit and when you'll be there. They'll put a travel note on your card so it doesn't get flagged/frozen for suspicious activity. This is VERY important! Years ago, I visited Spain while we were abroad but didn't tell my bank beforehand. Turns out, my card wouldn't work at all in Spain because there was a lot of fraud there. The last thing you want is to use those precious international phone minutes in a panic because you didn't plan ahead. (Thankfully, I was traveling with a friend at the time paid her back later.) 
• Currency exchange: Your bank probably offers a currency exchange service for free. Before you go, exchange your US dollars for some cash in the local currency. Your credit/debit card will probably still work, but there are many instances when cash is best.

A lovely morning at Edinburgh Castle

Peeking through a cannon embrasure (window/slot) at the top of Edinburgh Castle (the mountain in the background is the lower portion of Arthur's Seat)

Edinburgh Castle + bonus background puppy dog

The Christmas market filled the Princes Street gardens

Midnight castle fireworks, viewed from the terrace of the National Museum of Scotland. Happy new year!

Day 4: Welcome to Scotland

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9
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What a day! Checked out of our Dublin hotel around 11am and had a few hours to kill before we needed to head to the airport to catch our RyanAir flight to Edinburgh. So we walked around in the shopping center/mall next to our hotel and grabbed a bite to eat in the food court. We chose seats that overlooked the streets below, so we got a good vantage point of some of the street performers break dancing and juggling. We took one last stroll through Stephen's Green then headed to the Dublin airport via the 757 Airlink bus.

A short 50ish minute flight later, and we landed in Edinburgh around 6pm. The bus route was affected a bit by the preparations for the New Year's festivities - "Hogmanay" as it's called in Edinburgh. We headed toward our hotel from the bus stop. And we were interrupted by the COOLEST thing ever: the Hogmanay torchlight procession. Essentially, thousands and thousands of people with torches marching down the street (it was a good thing, not a protest). I knew the procession would be happening as we came into town, but I didn't expect it to be right in front of us!

Scattered throughout the mass of torch bearers were groups of bagpipe players and drummers. The streets were PACKED and it was difficult to navigate the sidewalks with all our luggage. Plus, the main street was gated off and we couldn't cross to get to our hotel just on the other side. But seeing the torchlight procession and bagpipe players was 100,000% worth the interruption and hassle and delay, in my opinion! I actually cried from happiness while we were standing there watching it all happen. Hands down the best way to be welcomed into Scotland. And also the best birthday present for Steven :) 

Tomorrow, New Year's Eve, we'll visit Edinburgh castle in the morning. Then enjoy 11pm dinner reservations that should *hopefully* give us a decent view of the fireworks shooting off the castle at midnight. Can't wait to ring in the New Year!

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Edinburgh Accommodations:

Travelodge, Edinburgh Central Hotel

33 St. Mary's Street

4 nights

Same company as our Dublin hotel, but so much better. Still cheaper than most of the other hotels in Edinburgh, despite the price hike for the days surrounding Hogmanay. The restaurant/bar downstairs had a great breakfast spread and was a convenient place to eat dinner when we were exhausted at the end of the day. Good prices on food, too. Located right off the Royal Mile, so just a short walk to everything. We could see Arthur's Seat from our 5th-floor window. Like the Travelodge in Dublin, they will hold your luggage for free for a few hours, so don't bother with early check in / late check out. 

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Travel Tips:

• Accommodations: Hostels are a great option if you want to save money and don't mind sleeping in a room with other people and using communal showers. The last time I was abroad, we stayed in hostels. We met so many interesting people from around the world. Air BnBs give you a more personal feel, since you're probably staying in someone's house. Hotels are the nicest option with the most amenities, but usually the most expensive. 
• I'll fly away: Once you land overseas, it's pretty affordable to fly to other countries. RyanAir is a cheap, no frills airline that can take you to the major cities within Europe. How cheap, you ask? I once flew from Paris to Pisa for less than 20 bucks. However, their carry-on size & weight requirements are smaller & lighter than the USA's. If you plan to country-hop, make sure you do your research beforehand so you don't get stuck paying fees for your bag being too big. 
• Public transit: Before you go, know exactly how you plan to get from the airport to your accommodations. Buses are cheap but take longer. Taxis are pricey but get you there faster. Google Maps and the airport website are your best resources. If you take a bus, know exactly which one to get on, which stop to get off, and how much it costs. Have exact change ready, because the driver won't give you change.

Dublin city streets - shopping to the left, tram lines in the middle, Stephen's Green to the right

Hundreds of seagulls, swans, pigeons, and ducks live in Stephen's Green

Edinburgh Hogmanay torchlight procession went straight down the Royal Mile

Some 20,000+ torchbearers, alongside 20,000+ spectators

Happy birthday Steven!

Day 3: Dublin's Fair City

Day 1  |  Day 2  |  Day 3  |  Day 4  |  Day 5  |  Day 6  |  Day 7  |  Day 8  |  Day 9

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Today was all about exploring the city of Dublin. Had a full Irish breakfast consisting of bacon (aka country ham), eggs, buttered toast, tomato, sausage, and something called black and white pudding. It wasn't anything like your snack-pak pudding; it tasted like meatloaf in the shape of a patty.

We booked our Guinness Storehouse tour for fairly early in the morning since it was cheaper than the peak times. It was such a cool museum/tour/storehouse! I loved all the interactive exhibits and learning the process of how Guinness is made. Some fun facts: A proper pint of Guinness takes about 2 minutes to pour, set/simmer down, top off, set again, and finally be ready to drink. The head of a Guinness must be between 10-15mm, and the server should always present your glass with the Guinness logo facing you. At the end of the self-guided tour, we were awarded with a wee pint and 360° views of the city at the top of the building.

Then we simply wandered around the rest of the day. Saw St. Patrick's cathedral, Christ Church, Steeven's Gate, the Dublin Castle, and lots of birds. Ate an early dinner in an old church that had been converted into a restaurant. Then made our way back to the hotel, enjoying the night views and the Christmas lights that were (gratefully) still on display. I'm really glad we came at Christmastime, because there were so many cool decorations that wouldn't normally be here.

Tomorrow we'll have a half day in the city, then fly to Edinburgh at 5pm. Steven gets to celebrate his birthday in two countries - something not many people get to do, I'm sure!

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Travel tips:

• HOHO: Hop-on, hop-off buses are great ways to get familiar with a city. They take you to some of the most famous attractions while the driver tells you all about each spot. They only go in one direction though - so depending on your destination, you may have to ride the entire 1.5-2 hour route. Sometimes it's faster to walk. But your feet will thank you for the break if you choose to ride.
• Offline: Before you travel, or when you're connected to Wifi, download an offline map of the city through Google Maps. That way, you don't have to use your precious mobile data to navigate the city. 
• Early bird: Tourist attractions get really busy after everyone's been awake for a while. Wherever you visit, try to get there first thing when it opens in the morning. It's way less crowded, the queues are shorter, and you can sometimes get a cheaper ticket for visiting at an off-peak time.

If you don't visit the Guinness Storehouse, did you even go to Dublin?

Lovely day for a Guinness!

Great views of the city from the top of the storehouse

City streets have a dedicated bus lane

Dublin Castle

Christ Church Cathedral